If you know the value of chloramine in your tap water you can tailor the amount of Campden. I use Haach test strips to measure the chlorine/chloramine value of my tap water, both pre-filtered and post filtering, and I can report that my municipal tap water only contains between 0.5 – 1 mg/L of chlorine as all chloramine. This recommended value is predicated on a ‘worst case’ value of 3 mg/L of chlorine all as chloramine of the tap water. The often-recommended dosage is 1 Campden tablet per 20 gallons of tap water. A best practice for proper filtering here is a slow flow rate with something like a flow rate of 1 gallon per minute being the goal.Īnother method to remove chloramine from tap water is using Campden tablets. I decided to purchase a three-stage block carbon filter that I installed under my sink to provide the needed ‘extra’ filtering to remove the chloramine from my municipal tap water. Unfortunately, chloramine can be a bit more challenging to remove than chlorine.
Chloramine is more stable (i.e., longer lasting) than chlorine and therefore beneficial for providing safe drinking water. My water supplier treats this water using chloramine as opposed to chlorine. There are a variety of sources for obtaining your brewing water: Municipal Tap WaterĪs I already discussed I receive municipal tap water and this is what I choose to use for my homebrewing. but there is typically little discussion concerning brewing water. There are lots of discussions about which hops should be selected, which brand/type of malt, which yeast strain to use, etc. But from my conversations with fellow homebrewers and readings of posts on homebrewing forums it seems like water is the least considered of the ingredients. I have read that water is > 90% of the content of beer. Water is by far the largest ingredient, by volume/weight, in brewing beer. I have used filtered water for my homebrewing thereafter.
I did not know if my municipal water supplier had “chlorine content that is excessive” but I figured it would be useful to purchase an activated charcoal filter that I could screw onto my kitchen sink faucet. Using a countertop activated charcoal-type filter will remove chlorine.” Some municipal water supplies have chlorine content that is excessive for brewing the absolute best beer. “If the water you use for brewing is suitable for drinking in the United States, then there is only one thing you as a beginner or intermediate brewer might consider doing to improve it. I still have that book and the pages are quite yellow from age. I followed that advice for my first batch.Ī year or so into my homebrewing avocation I purchased my first homebrewing book: The New Complete Joy of Homebrewing by Charlie Papazian. The young fellow working the store informed me that if my tap water tastes good then it is good enough to brew with. There was one missing ingredient from that purchase: water. When I first started homebrewing over 25 years ago I went to my Local Homebrew Store (LHBS) to purchase homebrewing equipment and ingredients for my first batch: a can of Muntons Traditional Bitter, another can of Muntons Liquid Malt Extract, some extra hops for flavor and aroma, and a sachet of Muntons dry yeast.
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